Once you've covered the area of wall where you need to work, the next step achieves what can be considered the plaster's new isolation layer. Using a roll of fiberglass mesh we use standard fiberglass window screen in 48" x ' rolls , cut a piece of fiberglass that you'll be able to work with. I find a 4'x4' sheet is about as big as we can reasonably handle at once. Then, using the taping knife, begin embedding the screen in the still wet coat you just applied. There is definitely a trick to this step, as you need to make sure you apply the screen evenly in the correct position and without any measurable wrinkles or folds.
Any bumps, air gaps, or irregularities may weaken the end result, but will definitely cause an inconvenience and pain in getting a good finished surface. If I'm having a hard time I start to embed just a little bit of the screen using my fingers. You can easily see if it's working when the screen is absorbed into the joint compound. To achieve the smooth application I like to use the "Union Jack" approach.
I start at one edge of the screen and use the taping knife across the entire screen to the opposite side, placing an embedded line right in the middle of the piece of screen. With the middle of the screen on the wall or ceiling, I begin working with the taping knife from the middle towards the edge, starting with a cross that is perpendicular to that first line.
Again, starting from the middle, I begin making diagonal lines out to the corners, effectively making markings similar to the Union Jack flag.
This tends to reduce the likelihood of any bubbles or folds as I'm only working from the center out. Once the Union Jack is in place, I just work to methodically, always from the center to the edges, to embed the remainder of the of the screen in the still wet joint compound. To ensure full adhesion, I then go over the whole thing with the flat trowel or large taping knife, eliminating any pockets and smoothing any significant bumps.
At this point I like to keep working on putting up screen in the room until all of the screen is in place. Repeating the process for each piece, I ensure an overlap of at least three or four inches on each piece.
You could move onto the next step and start jumping around a bit, but I find that to be too overwhelming. If it's a large room, you may run out of time on the joint compound before it begins to cure. If that happens, it's important to time your process so you aren't left trying to embed the screen in dry joint compound. Otherwise you'll end up frustrated and with a bunch of built up joint compound that you now have to somehow scrape or sand off.
As you move around the room, there will be holes that need to be cut in the screen such as for lights or ducts. Don't bother trying to pre-cut those holes. Go ahead and put the screen up on the ceiling and allow it to go over top of the holes. Once you've embedded it in place, come back with the utility knife and cut it away. The screen cuts really easily once in the joint compound, and even easier after the joint compound has had a chance to harden up.
Once you've covered the entire room in screen your first layer is done. Sit back, relax, clean up your tools, and admire your hard work. For us, in our bathroom, we'd lived with the horrible texture on the ceiling, the bad cracks, and the fear that the whole thing could come crashing down at any moment for so long that the look of the screen over the whole ceiling was a marked improvement and gave us a tremendous sense of hope.
In our next post we'll continue covering the process and will fill you in on the next steps in correcting ceiling and wall plaster issues. We'll also touch on the first steps to taking a newly hung drywall wall back in time with our tips for making drywall look like it belongs in a house full of plaster walls and ceilings, all as a DIYer. What are your thoughts on plaster? Are you in a "do whatever it takes to save it" crowd, or do you tend to the "rip it our and replace it" side of the fence?
Here's the whole list for convenience:. The only part of our house that had anything like what you're talking about are the places where we have plaster right on the brick.
And yes, that stuff falls apart like it's its job. We also had a bit more "modern" materials in the kitchen. Think drywall, but drywall made from cement with a plaster skim coat from about It was the heaviest wall material I've ever seen in my life.
We could basically put about 2 square feet of it in each garbage bag or else it got too heavy. I love the ideal that your home's trim and details might be lurking just behind a layer of drywall.
So cool. I know the feeling on the exposed brick. We'll be doing that in one more room of the house, and possibly the basement as well, when all is said and done. What is it about your "new" plaster that makes you feel differently about your situation? Lack of fallingdowness? The ceilings were left in place since the electrician could channel thru the plaster, but were drywalled over.
The living room walls had been paneled, with holes knocked at the tops of the stud bays to pour in insulation. Then the ceiling was dropped as the paneling was 8 feet tall and the ceiling are over 9. I was also able to use closed cell foam insulation on the open walls. It doesn't have the texture of the original plaster, but once furniture, drapes, artwork, etc.
Although my hasty patching of the worst wall before I painted is starting to crack again. Oh well. One question though, if you only have a few cracks on the wall do you still have to cover the entire wall with the screen? Good question, and the answer all depends on you.
Personally, I'm getting to the point where I'm so incredibly anal that I want the whole wall or ceiling to have the same texture, so I want to skim the whole thing, and while I'm at it, I might as well cover the whole thing in screen. If that's not really your concern, then the only section of the wall or ceiling that really needs screen are the areas with cracks, as those spots will most likely move again in the future. After seeing your process I have to say you would save an infinite amount of time and would get wall and ceiling infinitely better looking if you just ripped out the plaster and drywalled the studs.
I've used Durabond many times. It hardens like rock and if you don't get it smooth while it is pliable you are in for hours of sanding. If you need to keep the old plaster you would be much better off applying a plaster adhesive to the walls and then skim coating with a finish grade plaster.
But if your wall surfaces are as bad as pictured I would go the drywall route without hesitation. Hi, really good blog thanks! I'm over in the UK and your tips are very good encouragement for my project I'm starting now which is renovation of our 16th C.
Quick question, any reason you use the glass fibre mesh rather than a more substantial metal lath? I guess its because the fibre allows very thin coats where as the metal lath would mean a thick and heavy build up?
Hi Phil. You're farmhouse sounds amazing. What I wouldn't give to have a 16th C. It's a dream of ours. Another way to maintain a max level of ultraviolet protection and repellency is merely to re-apply Aerospace Protectant sufficiently often enough to keep up the like-new appearance it imparts to the vinyl. The demo car used by Mike Phillips: a Oldsmobile Cutlass with less than 30, original miles. The original vinyl top is intact, with no rips and in good overall condition except that it is dull and lifeless looking.
Using a soft brush, apply the and water cleaning solution and gently agitate the cleaning solution over and into the vinyl top. Only the front half will be treated to demonstrate how Aerospace Protectant restores a vibrant, new appearance to old, worn and faded vinyl. Fold your microfiber towel 4-ways to give you 8 sides to wipe with and re-fold towel as needed to provide you with a dry wiping side.
Here are the results, you can clearly see how the Aerospace Protectant has brought out the richness of color of the blue pigment in the vinyl top. On Autogeek. The Guzzler Combo Kit.
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After tightening up the bolt, the whole unit gets placed in either the oven, or in the Groovy Pouch - I was lucky to receive the Pouch, otherwise you have to have an oven that can regulate temperature under degrees. With the Pouch, all you have to do is velcro it shut, plug it in and off you go.
Depending on the severity of the warp, I've found that flattening can be achieved between 4 - 12 hours. Since receiving the Vinyl Flat , I've saved approximately 20 unplayable records that I am now able to enjoyOct 18, · Plaster. This single, solitary word in the old house vernacular elicits a visceral reaction of sorts in many people. It's a characteristic trait of buildings from 60 years to much much older that embodies the true nature of love/hate relationships among DIYers, renovators, preservationists, rehabilitators, flippers, home inspectors, and pretty much anyone who has every worked with the stuff.